All Quiet on the Western Front by Fiona Weir

Having never been a wife/ partner of a service man, I am fairly new to the existing family of this wonderful TSW group.

I was lucky enough to attend the unveiling of the RAFSC & TSW Memorials at the National Arboretum followed by The Presidents dinner last year where I met a few of the Association members who I then caught up with again in November at the Remembrance parade in London.

Ray Rucroft (my partner) had booked his Flanders trip a couple of years ago; I think just at the beginning of our courting so It was lucky for me it was postponed and put back to this year due to COVID.

We travelled down from Peterhead in the north of Scotland the day before departure from Stafford. Our trip didn’t have the best of starts, when my phone broke before even leaving Scotland no way was I having a trip away without my phone so our journey was delayed for a few hours whilst I got a new phone and had my data transferred over, or so I thought.

We arrived in plenty of time for our departure after explicit instructions from the event organizer Wayne, who sadly could not attend, that the coach would be leaving at 6am, or as Ray pointed out 0600hrs. Obviously the driver didn`t get the memo and arrived at 6.15am. It was lovely to see the guys greeting each other as they arrived, there was a mist of excitement in the air and lots of smiles and laughter and a few comments about Stafford now being an Army site rather than RAF.

I think loading the huge volume of (refreshments) on the bus took priority over the luggage. The bar was at the back of the bus, as was our duty adult Geordie leading from the back.

There were a couple of stops to pick up Andy (Thornton) our tour guide and Hank, which meant we also had extra loo stops which is essential for ladies sharing a bus with mainly men, who need to use the loo, on the bus, more often when they drink.

Lots of laughter and memories were shared and I believe that each member of TSW honestly believes they were part of the best TSW team ever by listening to their experiences and stories.

It became evident Blaine hadn’t received his COVID passport and was frantically trying to get evidence of his jab status prior to leaving England, needless to say he was the victim of a lot of wind ups but took it all in great fun. He got the loudest cheer when the document finally arrived on his phone.

When people have a drink, they always seem to talk louder than they realize which turned out to be the case of one of our travelling companions who had a fear of being in the Euro tunnel and his mate who was sat next to him.  There was a lot of chat, winding each other up about what could happen in the tunnel if a disaster was to occur. What was better of the two evils, fire or water in the tunnel. This soon transcended into a very in-depth discussion about what would be the best design for the tunnel triangle or arch, each trying to convince the other with their theory. Alcohol has a strange effect on some people.

I was a little apprehensive about the tunnel myself but instead of their conversation fearing me more I was happy to know I wasn’t the only one with worries. Soon enough though I could point out I could see daylight through the small window of the carriage we had crossed in, which was a relief.

The drink was flowing as fast as the chat and the bus was buzzing with excitement, we moved quickly through customs and through the tunnel and arrived in France.

Blaine was most upset when we were never asked to show our COVID passports leaving England nor entering France, sods law though if he didn’t have it he would have been stopped.

Geordie (our Responsible / Duty Adult) was selling raffles to win a thermal TSW drinks cup.  Ray won the first one, I`m sure I’m his lucky charm. This turned out to be a very sought-after item, with more raffles to come, and lots of attempts from the others to win one.

When in France the tour began, with a few stops prior to going to the hotel, visiting Ypres and Essex Farm cemetery.  Andy was a fantastic guide with so much passion and knowledge for WW1 and WW2 which he was happy to share.  Throughout the trip he shared so many individual stories of hardship and brought to mind many things I had never given consideration to before.

I have to admit I have always joked with Ray about him being a bit of an anorak regarding his fascination with the RAF and past wars. Now I have to eat humble pie and admit there is so much to learn and so many interesting facts. For those who know me I’m not always good at saying I was wrong, but enough about that.

Whenever getting off the bus Andy always remembered the precious cargo he was transporting and reminded us to watch the road as the cyclists don’t stop. This became a bit of harmless banter with the lads.

 Andy explained about the soldiers buried in the various cemeteries, how their upkeep was funded; the maintenance of the sites; reasons for the shapes and styles of the headstones, and the inscriptions at the bottom of the stones including family input into the bottom inscription. The reason why some headstones are so close together etc all very relevant and something I would never have known had we done this trip on our own without the guidance of Andy.

I believe the trip was also made more special by being on it with ex servicemen who I listened to over the next few days as they were dismayed at the conditions and reflected on how different their own service had been.

Soon after we arrived in Belgium the driver stated that the toilet was ¾ full as the men had been using it rather than getting off at the stops and using the facilities there. His problem was that he knew it would need to be emptied but due to restrictions regarding the chemicals in it there were only certain places it could be emptied, however as if in chorus a number of the men shouted, he should empty it in France, I have no idea why they would suggest that??

We arrived at our hotel which was clean and the staff very friendly, Andy advised he had arranged a wake- up call early next morning, we thought at that point he was joking. After a quick shower and change we were out to the most amazing Brasserie for supper. The food was amazing, the meatballs and Flemish stew were out of this world and the owner was very friendly and accommodating. So much so, he relocated a pensioner to another table so four of us could sit down for our meal. Fed and watered it was an early night for us, but not everyone.

The following morning, Saturday, I noticed some of the lads entering the breakfast area saluted their friends rather than a good morning, which was nice. We were up and away to Tyne Cot cemetery, Vancouver Corner-Canadian memorial. Langemark a German cemetery was visited by Hitler.  It was a bit strange to think he had been there and now we were standing where he once stood. I heard a few of the TSW lads paying respects to the fallen and acknowledging they were just young lads sent to battle, it wasn’t their fight but ended their lives.

Hooge Crater Museum for lunch which was delicious, and I managed to pick up a WW1 hand grenade for Rays birthday the following week and a Hooge Crater skip hat and beanie. Afterwards we went to Sanctuary Wood and the Mesen town where there is a statue a British and German soldier shaking hands and coming together over a football, where the famous football match between the two sides took place. Ray said that Scotland got knocked out in the first round.  Lots of us used this for a photo opportunity and again replicated it in the Peronne historical museum the following day.

 

Each evening at 2000 hrs The Last Post Ceremony takes place at the Menin Gate and this was our next and final stop of the day. I was so proud to be with the TSW contingent as they were the smartest and best turned out of all the groups attending. Ray was asked to lay a wreath on behalf of the Association and was ably escorted by John Underhill and Carl Ronson who by far, the trio had the best march when approaching to lay the wreath and on their return. A very somber, and humbling event. Different bands play on each occasion, but we were fortunate that The Clan Wallace Liverpool pipe band played on this occasion…. which I must admit it made my heart proud and my feet tap. Ray admitted to becoming quite emotional when he heard the pipes. I will turn him into “Jock” yet.

Afterwards it was back to the hotel and out for supper to our gem we had found, Steve`s Brasserie. Another fine meal and a chance to try some of the local lagers before heading back to the hotel.

Sunday was another eventful an busy day with so much to take in and so much to see, Andy as always was reminding us to watch the bikes, which to be fair we had probably have forgotten and could have had a few collisions.

We visited PERONE Historical Museum. Now I do love a selfie with a hat and my mates before my departure had been laughing at the fact there would be no hat photo opportunities…how wrong they were. We found some Tommy hats, German Pickelhaube, a German hat with a point on the top, and a Knights helmet with a huge feather. 

After lots of the guys tried on the headwear  to replicate the Mesen town football memorial statue Larry bought a Tommy helmet which he became very attached to but not as attached as Geordie who  continued to wear his Pickelhaube for a few days after his return home much to the dismay of poor Louisa…..

Me I was conned into buying the dearest one , the Knights helmet but warned not to wear it to a Scotland/England match . A bit odd for a WW1 tour. Wrong type, wrong century but hey ho, the pink feather was beautiful.

We had a Packed lunch at Ulster Tower and couldn’t have had better weather and better company. It became apparent during one or two conversations that; I do believe the gents urinals were a little high for some of our lads which leaves the question as to how tall the average Belgian gentleman is.

We ventured back into France, not to empty the toilet, but to visit the Newfoundland Memorial Park and the preserved trenches. The memorial is dedicated to the forces of the Dominion of Newfoundland killed in the first world war. It is also home to a memorial to the 51st Highland Division who had fought on this site.   

The last place we visited was Thiepval Memorial which is very modern and has the most amazing artefacts, you could easily spend a day here. I needed some help in working out the cost of a WW1 Monopoly game for Rays birthday.  I`m rubbish at surprises and had given him the previous presents the night before. Thanks to Larry for helping me to work out the money and to Blaine for hiding the pressie until we got back to Stafford. The museum didn’t have any bags, so Blaine was kind enough to smuggle it out without Ray seeing it.

Andy made sure that he was always available for any questions, and it was very visible that he loved his job. As a ‘Brucie bonus’ he had brought along one of his own medals that that he had bought at auction it was engraved as belonging to a named soldier with the story behind it.

The trip was nearly over, and the information was beginning to overload as intriguing and interesting it was a busy and exhausting few days, but I had turned into a sponge, soaking up as much info as I could. Maybe I too have become a WW1 anorak.

We had told everyone on the bus about our hidden gem, Steve’s` brasserie but kind of shot ourselves in the foot. As we returned on our final night to have the best meatballs ever before our departure, we were disappointed to find most of our party were there who had finished all the meatballs. But the steak was equally delicious.

Back to the hotel for a wee nightcap before bed, Ray asked if I wanted to sit in Jock Corner which turned out to be beside Dave, George and Bob.  Ray tagged along as his heritage says he cannot be an honorary member. Quite an early night again as it would be a long trip home the following day.

The journey home was a lot quieter than on the way there but there was still a lot of chat, I feel very honored to have been part of the trip and be accepted by everyone who made me very welcome and included. I think the trip was made more special because it was shared with Veterans and hearing their stories and questions added to the experience. I just loved every minute of it and the hug one of the lads gave me at Stafford thanking me for being his mam and looking after him with my mobile pharmacy made me realise not only have I aged but I was accepted.

On my return home I bought a book called “Tommy`s Ark” which is a good read, and watched numerous films related to where we had just been.

I have come home with a different outlook, Andy shared a story of a mother who lost 4 sons in a single day and a 5th son soon after, I cannot comprehend the pain this mother must have gone through. 

A recurring inscription families choose for the bottom of many of the headstones read,

‘HIS HEART WAS GOOD

HIS SPIRIT BRAVE

HIS RESTING PLACE

IS A HEROS GRAVE’

This sums up so many heartfelt messages

Even stories of how the war changed peoples lives and they may have ended up in poverty that they were not living in prior to the war, kids having to go to work to earn money as their fathers were at war. There is just so much we should be grateful for,

Maybe I’ve been over-thinking and assessing too much since coming home, I was in hospital in a ward with a bunch of moaning women, complaining about a draught, food just everything and all I could think of was the makeshift hospitals that we had just visited and how different life is now.

Andy explained to this day there is still some artefacts, weapons and bodies being discovered, particularly after inclement weather conditions.

I can only imagine the work and effort into arranging such a spectacular trip and want to say thank you ……and I hope I am allowed to join the group next year.

Let us know how to get back to you.


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