I’ve just returned from a rather unexpected trip to the Falklands. Two of my local mates are South Atlantic 82 (SA82) veterans; one a Sea King pilot who operated in the SH role, the other a watchkeeper on the Leander frigate HMS Argonaut. Both had very exciting times during the conflict! My SA82 experience was on Ascension where, as a part of the newly formed Joint Helicopter Support Unit (JHSU), I ran the helicopter outload from the airfield to the passing ships of the Task Force; damned hard work but nobody was shooting at me! So when we found out that SA medal holders are allowed to indulge on the twice weekly Voyager from Brize Norton at a very reasonable price we thought “why not”! And wives can pay the full whack and fly as tourists on the same aircraft; it’s not quite BA Business Class but we got there and back!
Before we travelled we had made contact with the wonderful Christine at Liberty Lodge in Stanley. This place offers free accommodation to SA82 Vets although was full when we were there and is almost fully booked through until 2027 the 45th anniversary of the conflict. Nevertheless, Christine organised transport and tours – all free to us – and gave us contacts and general assistance; incredible. Even if you’re not a SA82 Vet I’d make contact with her as I’m sure she’d help. Given the lack of space in the Lodge we stayed at the Waterfront Hotel near the pier head in Stanley. It’s a really nice little hotel, not cheap but good value. We also stayed at the Malvina Hotel (note, no s) which offers typical modern accommodation and a good bar and restaurant. So if you want to visit, there’s plenty of accommodation. Stanley has changed a lot over the last 40 years. It’s much bigger, the infrastructure is vastly better as are the shops and hostelries. Overall, it is much more affluent – nice to see.
The first part of our trip was largely war related. We visited Cape Pembroke and the Atlantic Conveyor Memorial, particularly poignant as both JHSU and TSW lads were on board when she was struck by an air-launched exocet missile; thankfully, all survived The loss of this ship, with its load of Wessex and Chinook helicopters, caused a significant shortfall in airlift and resulted in the Marines and Paras having to do their famous Yomp and Tab across East Falkland and into battle. Round the coast a little and there’s the HMS Glamorgan Memorial. Although not lost, she suffered significant damage and loss of life when, having just finished providing Naval Gunfire Support to the land battle, she was also struck by an Exocet, this time launched from a land based trailer. There are too many memorials to visit but we also walked up onto Wireless Ridge, one of the last battle grounds where 2 Para had their second victory and Mt Longdon, taken by 3 Para and where Sgt Ian McKay posthumously won his Victoria Cross.
Cape Pembroke
HMS Glamorgan Memorial Surf Bay
2 Para Memorial Wireless Ridge
One of the big changes that has happened in the 40 years since I last visited are the roads. Fundamentally they didn’t exist, or at best were tracks, but nowadays there’s a graded road right around East Falkland….so we hired a 4×4 and set off. First stop was Fitzroy where one of my friends courageously lifted Welsh Guardsmen from the bow of the RFA Sir Galahad. After some reflection we moved on to Goose Green, visiting the site of H Jones’ death, the 2 Para memorial and into “town” for a coffee. Oh well, the sign saying ” This is no longer a café” soon put paid to that…..on, on. We visited the Argentine Cemetery, a rather sad place, before moving on to San Carlos. This is one of the places where British troops landed, it’s on the shore of Bomb Alley where my other friend’s ship was badly damaged during air raids, and is now the peaceful location of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery where, amongst other Lt Col H Jones VC is buried.
San Carlos Water – Bomb Alley – looking North to Fanning Head
Although our map didn’t show a road linking to the north we had been assured that there was one so we followed our noses. It was all going so well until, about an hour into this return journey, we came across a bulldozer sitting on top of a huge pile of rock completely blocking the road. Our hearts sank at the thought of having to backtrack all the way to Stanley – a 3+ hour journey instead of the 1.5 hours expected. I jumped out of the car and in my best British accent asked if “getting by” was possible. “No bother mate, I’ll just flatten this out” – we were on our way again in 10 minutes! This route took us along the path of the Marines – from Port San Carlos to Teal Inlet and Estancia House – what an effort that must have been!
Our trip now turned more towards wildlife through visiting Whale Point to see Elephant Seal and Gentoo Penguins before flying off to Fox Bay on the West Island. Of course, Fox Bay is where TSW have a permanent detachment and it wasn’t long before we’d met Cpl Steve Thomson and AS1 Stu Cartwright; Steve gave us an excellent tour around the refuelling site where I was able to gen up before Wayne asks the officers more difficult questions at the Reunion Dinner! Our civilian hostess had mentioned to us what good lads they were and that they joined her wild swimming in the Bay! Now my wife Jane always has her cossie – sadly I’d left mine in Stanley. However, as Jane and our friend Rosie decided to go for a swim I felt that I had to join…knickers were good enough but I’m not sharing the photo! Steve and Stu were on hand to show us the way and, of course, joined us – Gad it was cold but invigorating!
From Fox bay we headed back to Stanley via Saunders Island – if you ever get to the Falklands visit this place – it’s an easy FIGAS trip. The wildlife was spectacular with Gentoo, Magellenic and King Penguin, Albatross and al arge pod of dolphin (we missed that morning’s show by some whales) all spotted as we walked up some cliffs for a wonderful picnic lunch. And the birds simply lack any fear of humans so you can get really close – truly magical. Our final day in Stanley was fog bound – the lesson here is do your travelling away from Stanley early as you never know what the weather will be like. Had we stayed at Fox Bay longer, as originally planned, we’d have missed the Voyager home. Finally, I cant emphasise enough the generosity of the Islanders, particularly those who remember the occupation. They looked after us so well and impressed us with their “can do anything” attitude. I really enjoyed the trip, not only for the memories but also as an experience. And importantly, our wives thought it fantastic.
Neil Cromarty
